Tuesday, October 22, 2019

Demystifying the Mythos of Cuba

Photo Credit: Dan Seal
Myth #1: Cubans don’t like Americans.

While there are people who believe that I would receive poor treatment as an American in Cuba, particularly when travelling in a tour group of Americans, my experience was vastly different. It was abundantly clear that Cubans are able to distinguish between the leaders in government and the average citizens of a country. I was shown nothing but kindness and generosity during my trip there with the dance-based tour group run by MetaMovements.

Of course, it helped that the leader of this group had built up meaningful connections with everyone we encountered from the hotel staff to the dancers who accompanied us on nights out and even led some of our excursions. However, beyond the partnerships that existed before I showed up, there was also the feedback the leader received from those communities we encountered. One prominent case had to do with our cultural exchange with an organization known as La Colmenita (Spanish for The Little Beehive). This is a program that offers theater, music, and dance classes and performance opportunities for children who may have traumatic home lives and/or have disabilities. One of the instructors in the program scoped out our group before allowing us to come visit and meet some of the children. She felt confident after meeting us that we would be a good fit for interacting with her “little bees.” We got to tour the Havana-based center where the magic happens (they have a few locations across the island) and learn about how these children learn theater and music through play by playing with them. We also then had the honor of watching them perform and they even invited us onstage to dance with them at the end of their show! They announced at the end that this was the first time that particular group of children had performed for an international audience, and it had given them optimism that they could do it again in the future. Meanwhile, the larger company of La Colmenita has been performing for international audiences for many years. They have won many accolades including a best actress award at the Cannes International Film Festival. I am sure that other travelers' experiences may be different depending on how they decide to travel (independently or with a tour group) and the people they encounter. I acknowledge that my trip was unique in many regards, but I stand by my general impression of the Cubans we met was positive.

Myth #2: Cuba is still communist and is strictly against our democratic values here in the US.

After speaking with a tour guide who lives and relies on both the Cuban government and tourist tips to provide for her family, my understanding is that Cuba is no longer communist; it is socialist, which means that although most people are still heavily reliant on the government for their rations of food and most services are government run, there are opportunities for earning money independently of the government to supplement one’s income. Additionally, there is much more of a thriving private sector than there had been prior to 2009. In the tourist industry, as this is the one I encountered most while being there, the supplemental income is accomplished through tips. MetaMovements prepared our group with a delineation of what is an appropriate tip to give different people depending on the service they provided. We tipped everyone from chefs in the hotel cafeteria to the dancers who taught us to the tour guide and bus driver who helped us navigate the city of Havana.

These tips can really go a long way for people particularly because of Cuba’s dual-currency situation. The country implements a resident-friendly currency known as the CUP (Cuban Peso) and a tourist-friendly currency known as the CUC (Cuban Convertible Peso). 1 CUC is nearly 30 CUPs. While this may feel unfair to tourists who in actuality are dishing out a lot of money for just tips alone, giving what is essentially $1-2 to people who provide you with quality food service or $15 for the bus driver is not as significant as you may think if you have already spent the money to visit Cuba in the first place. However, 30 CUPs for the average Cuban can go a long way into helping them care for their families. While I understand that Americans may not agree with everything the Cuban government has done to run its country (even I don’t), it doesn’t mean that individual Cubans should be held responsible for the failings of a larger system, which brings me to the next myth.


Myth #3: The US-Cuba embargo is still necessary for American safety.

There are varying interpretations of why the embargo is still in place that come from the US government as well as American citizens. Personally, I find the embargo to be unnecessary. It is clear that limiting travel and US exports to Cuba have had a negative impact on Cuban economy and infrastructure, but it hasn’t changed the government from a socialist to a democratic one the way some US politicians had hoped. Although it may sound cliche, I do believe that the first step out of this is educating both US travelers and Cuban citizens.

I do not purport to be an expert on all things US-Cuban history and relations, but it has been my impression that the limited desire Americans have to travel to Cuba stems from feeling it is unsafe to do so. The socialist government, the associated costs with paying for a visa even for a short trip, and the potential to have a run-in with the US government are all valid reasons to be cautious about travelling there. However, the enriching experience to be gained from going should not be undermined. I did not know much about Cuba going into the trip with MetaMovements, but they did a thorough job with explaining the cultural elements that are important to know as well as what to expect at the airport in order to avoid any travel concerns. With proper support and research, you, too, may find yourself on line getting your Cuban travel visa to enjoy the warm Cuban climate and beaches of Havana.

The other aspect of education that is necessary is on the Cuban side. Having a socialist government means that while all schools are public and therefore free, which is fantastic, it also means that there is a standardization of thought. Often when talking to people in Cuba about the political situation, they referenced how the revolution of 1959 “triumphed.” It tells you a little something about how poor the circumstances were for the majority of Cubans prior to the revolution as well as how they were told to speak about the revolution. That, along with the restricted access to the internet, only available in certain hotspots or if one is lucky enough to get a certain phone from a foreign provider, severely limits the chance that any change in political thought will occur. If the US government truly cared about improving the political situation in Cuba, they would find ways to provide greater access to the internet where citizens can be exposed to a wide range of opinions and beliefs that challenge their own assumptions.

Myth #4: Cubans are woefully repressed and unhappy due to their circumstances.

Though I did encounter some dilapidated buildings in Havana, and I did hear first-hand the challenges particularly of relying on the tourist industry for survival, the general Cuban population has shown a great deal of resilience in their day-to-day lives. Thanks to Former President Obama’s détente, access to certain resources made it more possible for building restoration to occur. In fact, even before Obama’s modest relaxation on travel restrictions to Cuba, there were people who focused their energy in finding creative ways to restore streets and buildings that were in dire need of it.

Additionally, Cuba is home to a world renowned ballet company and theater comparable to the Bolshoi Theater of Moscow. Aspiring dancers from around the world come to Cuba for a chance to vie for a spot in the ballet school there. That, along with being the originators of salsa dance and music (along with many other Latin styles), make Cuba a desirable place to be if you want to know what it feels like to connect with another human being through movement and music. While I was there, we danced everywhere from the underground clubs to the beach to the senior center in old Havana. People walking by stopped and either watched or joined in with us. I am grateful to live in a city in the US that has tried to emulate some of that culture through its nightclubs and outdoor dance festivals in the summertime.

When touring Old Havana at night with one of the dancers from the company that accompanied our group, one of us had asked if Cubans are happy living here. Without missing a beat, this dancer/tour guide’s response was (and I paraphrase), “Undeniably. We love life and believe in living it to the fullest and that’s what we do here in Cuba.”

Myth #5: New sanctions on the US-Cuba embargo make it impossible to travel to Cuba.

It’s not impossible; it’s just more difficult. If what I’ve written above has not convinced you already, I will say it now: I think Cuba is a joy to visit. In my experience, there isn’t a country out there that has a greater desire to build meaningful relationships with other countries. In fact, I got to meet one of the representatives in the government-run department that works to establish friendly relations with foreign nations. She spoke about the programming they do to rebuild the country, particularly in the agricultural sector, but also how desirable Cuban doctors have become abroad. Cuba’s medical schools are free for those who come from Cuba or elsewhere and they are known for their strong curriculum that makes them exemplary medical practitioners that other countries look to in programs such as Doctors Without Borders.

While the simple people-to-people exchange visa is now practically off-limits, there are many reasons to visit Cuba and many visas that you can sign under in order to get that coveted spot on an airplane to get there. As someone who visited, I will tell you: the people are worth it, the sights are worth it, the music and dance are worth it. Just go - you won’t regret it!